The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
British Vogue is set to hire a new “head of editorial content” as Edward Enninful steps away from his dual role as European editorial director of Vogue and editor-in-chief of British Vogue next year, the magazine said Friday. Enninful will transition to a global advisory role at Vogue, publisher Condé Nast’s flagship title.
In the new position of editorial advisor to British Vogue and global creative and cultural advisor of Vogue, Enninful will “contribute to the creative and cultural success of the Vogue brand globally, while having the freedom to take on broader creative projects,” he said in a memo to staff seen by BoF.
Enninful made history as Vogue’s first Black editor-in-chief when he was named to lead the title’s British edition in 2017. In recent years, as Condé Nast eliminated editor-in-chief roles at most of Vogue’s international editions in a streamlining and cost-cutting push, Enninful was the only editor-in-chief to hold onto his position (with the exception of worldwide chief content officer and global editorial director of Vogue Anna Wintour).
The plan to appoint a head of editorial content to succeed Enninful at British Vogue would align the magazine with its other European editions, where a generation of leading stylists and fashion editors like Emmanuelle Alt (Vogue Paris) and Emanuele Farneti (Vogue Italia) were exited and replaced by younger, web-savvy (and less well-paid) editors, reporting to Enninful. Working alongside Wintour and Condé Nast CEO Roger Lynch, Enninful sought to streamline editorial operations and harmonise the group’s content strategy across editions.
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Born in Ghana in 1972, Enninful got his start in fashion magazines at the British style bible i-D, where he was appointed fashion director at the age of 18. He later became style director at W magazine (then also owned by Condé Nast). Known for the provocative elegance of his imagery, Enninful built close relationships with top fashion talents like Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Pat McGrath, and has fought for a more diverse fashion media landscape with efforts like Vogue Italia’s 2008 issue featuring all-Black models and celebrities, which he spearheaded under then-editor Franca Sozzani. In 2016, Enninful was awarded an OBE for his services to diversity in the fashion industry.
During his tenure at British Vogue, a signature mix of edgy glitz and classic glamour has resonated with readers, helping the title achieve social media buzz and greater commercial traction, according to executives. Cover stars have included favourite models like Campbell, Moss, Adut Akech and Adwoa Aboah (the latter of which starred on his debut issue), as well as powerful female role models from beyond fashion like Oprah Winfrey, Malala Yousafzai and Sinéad Burke. His sell-out September 2019 issue, which was guest edited by Meghan Markle, featured 15 trailblazing “forces for change,” including Greta Thunberg and Jane Fonda.
Vogue’s European heads of editorial content, including the chiefs of rebranded Vogue France (formerly Vogue Paris) and Vogue Italia, will continue to report to Enninful for the time being. British Vogue is set to stage a major event in partnership with LuisaViaRoma in Florence June 14.
Enninful’s successor at British Vogue has yet to be named, and Condé Nast declined to confirm how reporting lines for Vogue’s European editions would evolve under the new structure. British Vogue’s new head of editorial content “will partner very closely with you all and Anna, and will initially report to me until we have onboarded them,” Enninful said in the memo to staff.
Tamison O’Connor contributed reporting to this story.
The heavyweight international Vogue editors who once filled the front rows at Paris Fashion Week were gone this season, a stark sign of the restructuring that has consolidated power in the hands of global editor Anna Wintour and her regional deputies.
Enninful, the former style director at W Magazine, succeeds Alexandra Shulman, who resigned after 25 years in January.
In a global world where local tastes still matter, the publisher of Vogue should be careful not to dictate too much of its content strategy from New York and London.
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