The Business of Fashion
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community.
Welcome back to Haul of Fame, the weekly beauty roundup of new products, new ideas and at least one Real Housewife.
Included in today’s issue: Beia, Byoma, Davines, Indeed Labs, Juliette Has a Gun, Hourglass Cosmetics, Killian Paris, Make Beauty, Ogee, Olive & June, Oscar de la Renta, PLA, R.E.M. Beauty, Smashbox Cosmetics, Solawave, Typology Paris, Urban Outfitters, Zizia Botanicals and strawberry soda.
But first…
Every few days, somebody tells Lisa Rinna to sit down. “They’d never say it to my face,” says the 60-year-old TV queen. “But I’ll get DMs and messages saying, ‘Why don’t you just let your daughters take over? Why are you still here?’ And the truth is, I’m here because my friends and I are the ones who have the money!” she exclaims. “We are still so viable. We feel great. And it’s a problem in the consumer marketplace that women over 40 aren’t being seen as sales drivers and trendsetters, even though we so often are.”
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Rinna was a soap opera veteran for years, but the California native gained new fame as a Real Housewife in 2014. She launched her personal care brand, Rinna Beauty, in 2020. By 2021, it was reporting $10 million in sales, with a public investment by UTA Ventures, the celebrity-fuelled capital fund that also counts Chamberlain Coffee (by Emma Chamberlain) and Cameo as portfolio-mates. Rinna confirms her brand is still “proudly profitable, thank god,” and growing into new categories.
Example: This week, it drops Bright Eyes, a line of cooling under-eye patches. “I’ve used all the [other] brands,” Rinna says from her home in Los Angeles. “I was determined to create one that’s not slimy! It feels cool; it doesn’t slide down your face; it works.” Rinna tested six prototypes before settling on her version, which costs $28 and includes Erewhon-friendly ingredients like red algae and carob in the formula.
The launch is a toe-dip into skincare for Rinna, who isn’t shy about discussing her cosmetics procedures. “Actually,” she concedes, “I think they’re the greatest things ever. Joan Crawford and Bette Davis didn’t have this technology at their fingertips. It’s brilliant we now have a choice in how we age.” Still, she cautions younger women to be sparing with their medi-spa moments: “If I’d known then what I know now, I’d say be careful with the lasers, be careful with the acids and stuff. Do less than you think you need, because if you start doing [procedures] too young, you’ll actually look older!”
Is this a brilliant line of thought to sell topical skincare to 30- and 40-something fans of Rinna? It is. But it’s also the true observation of a woman with two Gen-Z daughters — Delilah Belle, 25, and Amelia Grey, 22 — who are stunning enough to be runway models, but still human beings caught in the impossible trap of modern fame, which demands expansive demonstrations of self-love and near-imperceptible attempts at self-promotion, often in the exact same TikTok frame.
Rinna has thoughts about that, too: “I think social media and [augmented reality] filters have really [messed] everybody up,” she says. “I feel very sorry for the kids that are growing up in this day and age and having to have phones and social media. It’s a double-edged sword that’s mostly very sharp and very cutting … but I understand that Instagram is also a tool, you know? It is what it is. I enjoy spreading joy on it, and I’m lucky I get to do that … I’m lucky I get to keep moving the needle and showing women that they can be amazing at 60 … But I have to be really clear-eyed about it, because it’s good and bad.”
As for being clear under-eyed, Rinna would point to her website. The new patches are available now.
Would you put an LED light on your breasts? Solawave’s new Neck and Chest Rejuvenating Mask rolled out on Apr. 9, with “red and near-infrared light therapies to target the neck and decolletage, where wrinkles, creases and dark spots often appear.” Honesty, I would try it… once, anyway.
Indeed Labs has hit CVS in a big way, launching six products in 2700 doors. Their offerings include Nanoblur skin cream and Snoxin II, which is a topical “facial line fighter” they claim is on par with injectables. (I will stick with my injectables, but perhaps that’s because I secretly love needles. Another column, another therapy session, etc.)
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If you’re one of those people who’s glued to your Ulta app, you may have noticed the stealth appearance of R.E.M. Beauty’s first under-eye balm on Apr. 3.
Do people take bubble baths anymore? Zizia Botanicals is thinking “sure” and they’ve released a Silky Forest formula with “therapeutic” atlas cedarwood, hinoki, and cypress extracts.
Beia released a Bikini + Body scrub on Apr. 11, which makes it easier to scrub away minor ingrown hairs and red bumps. It includes green tea extract, which is high in antioxidants. If you’re young and broke, I recommend taking a still-warm green tea bag and compressing it directly on your razor bumps instead; the rest of you can pay the $38.
Also on the green tea beat: On Apr. 11, Ogee introduced Clearganics, a green dropper serum for zits with the tea, plus 0.5 percent salicylic acid, raspberry and frankincense. (Can I make a “holy water” joke here, or are biblical resin gums not that funny? If you grew up going to church, please advise.)
Typology Paris made a new Anti-Redness Face Cream on Apr. 8 for rosacea and skin that’s prone to redness and irritation. It comes in an old-school metal tube like many French pharmacy ointments, but contains modern fixes like Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid.
Eco-sensitive Italian label Davines quietly rolled into Target on Apr. 6. This might be the first time the superstore has used the words “regenerative soil” and “shampoo” in the same blurb. I like it.
PLA’s Lash & Brow Rehydrate and Restore Serum hit shelves on Apr. 4. It claims to help regrow over-tweezed brows and thicken lashes; it also includes marshmallow serum, which is a calming agent.
On Apr. 9, Laura Gellar gave us a reason to tell the truth about our age: Her site’s “OK Boomer” campaign with comedian Leanne Morgan includes a promo for anyone over 40. To celebrate, head to her site through Apr. 16 and get an age-based discount if you’re 40 or older. If you’re 50, you’ll get 50 percent off everything; if you’re 60, it’s 60 percent off. The discounts go all the way up to 80 percent for octogenarians, which means if Martha Stewart (82) needs new mascara, she’s in for a very good deal.
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Make Beauty is going big with their first liquid eyeliner. It appeared on their site on Apr. 9 and came in 13 shades, including traditional black and grey, along with aqua, yellow, lilac and a deep maroon.
Brands are going to the matte. On Apr. 7, Smashbox Cosmetics debuted a version of its best-selling Photo Finish Resurface Primer with glycolic acid to “boost cell turnover” and (hopefully) brighten skin while it blurs pores. Also on Apr. 7, Hourglass Cosmetics launched its Vanish Airbrush Pressed Powder. It is “clinically shown to instantly reduce shine,” but all you need is a mirror and not a physics degree to decide for yourself.
LYS Beauty dropped two new shades of their No Limits Cream Bronzer Stick on Apr. 10, bringing the total hue count up to seven … and the total TikTok view count up to about five million.
Do we need a separate “gloss roundup” in every issue now? Fine: Byoma unveiled a Lip Tide lip oil on Apr. 12 with a “glossy flush” formula exclusive to Ulta.com. R.E.M. Beauty’s new Essential Drip Glossy Balm debuted on Apr. 9, with six colours including two — cherry cola and strawberry soda — named for fizzy drinks. Somebody get Ari an Aarke machine!
Killian Paris embraced their Sunkissed Goddess scent on Apr. 2. The fragrance includes monoi oil, a Tahitian gardenia extract that’s both aromatic and nourishing for dry or sunburned skin. So many perfumes are touting mental health benefits right now; it’s neat to see one that’s more focused on a physical ailment.
Juliette Has a Gun introduced a new Eau de Parfum on Apr. 6 that’s heavy on dark cherry and Cashmeran notes. It’s simply called Juliette, which is kind of a relief, because although the fragrances themselves are gorgeous, the word “gun” is no longer an edgy joke amongst American girls.
On Apr. 9, Oscar de la Renta dropped three new scents in their Alibi collection: Eau So Charming, Eau So Chic, and Eau So Lucky. Each boasts a mix of cheery floral notes, and the packaging is super-cute. The thing is, ODLR creative directors Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia aren’t cute, they’re cool, and so are their clothes. I wonder what kind of magic a fragrance that directly connects with their own vibes would bring.
On Apr. 4, Olive & June dropped three topcoats, including iridescent and gold shimmer and one sparkly flake called “Fairy.” Clearly, I must own this at all costs. Fortunately, the actual cost is $7.50.
I know we said that sex care could be the new skincare. Still, your reproductive areas do not need a sheet mask, even if it’s packaged perfectly and you can grab it along with your Polaroid film at Urban Outfitters.
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